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 Tonga, South Pacific

Spring 1999

This trip is based on a previous sailing adventure the the island Kingdom of Tonga.  The route will be much the same with additional time spent at the most awesome islands and villages.  Our plans will be subject to change base on local weather conditions and the interests of all aboard.  It is our custom to get together once before the trip so everyone can meet each other and once after the trip to share pictures and memories.


The island Kingdom of Tonga is deep in the South Pacific with 170 mountainous islands that were settled at least 500 years before the birth of Christ.  It is centered between New Zealand, Hawaii, Tahiti, and Fiji.  Fewer than forty of the islands are inhabited with a total population less than 100,000.  Captain James Cook, in 1777, called them "The Friendly Islands" because the affectionate people welcomed him with abundant hospitality, typical of Tonga to this day.  Tongan and English are the predominant languages.  It's a place of brilliant colors, blue lagoons, fine coral sand beaches, lush green coconut plantations, and dramatic deep water drop-offs with diving tours of shipwrecks and caves.  With clear, crystalline waters, visibility extends down to 30 meters.  The highlight of the year is the Vava'u festival held annually during the first week in May.  To share these occasions is to share an act of great friendship.


Executive Summary 

We will depart Newark airport (other departures are good) and fly to Vava'u in the island Kingdom of Tonga.  In the late morning we will set sail for Port Mourell on Kapa Island.  It will be a leisurely day so we might take a hike on Kapa Island in the afternoon.  The next morning we will sail to Hunga Lagoon and fish just outside the lagoon and then sail to Foeata for lunch and snorkel before anchoring for the night.   Later in the week we will sail south for Luaa Fuelheu or Lauhiapu - both are beautiful deserted islands.  Back at Vaka'eitu Island we will snorkel the reef which is majestic.  Mouno Island is a beautiful place for lunch and to enjoy the beach.   We will head out for Aisea's Beach, where a Polynesian feast and traditional Tongan dance will be enjoyed.  Early in the second week, we will sail to remote and beautiful Maninita for lunch and snorkeling and then sail north to Kenutu to anchor.   We will sail early on e morning for Fanua Tapu pass and anchor on the northeast side of Tonga to snorkel the reefs to Tauta.  We will sail around Aunga for a lunch stop and snorkeling between Naau and Pau and then sail for Nuapapu and Mariners Cave and head for Swallows Cave on Kapa.  We will return to the Port of Refuge Harbor by noon on our last day.  It's paradise here and we will usually get up late, start slow, and taper off.


Highlights

Passports are required and an airline ticket to leave.  If you decide to stop at an infected country, (e.g., Latin America), you'll need proof of a yellow fever vaccination. 

The weather is sunny and warm all year in the Kingdom.  The average temperature in May is 80ºF with typical winds from the southeast to east at 12 knots.  The man tide rise and fall is 3.3 feet thus causing some strong currents in narrow passages.  The weather forecasting in Vava'u is good and they have had only one hurricane during the last twenty five years.

Activities include beach combing, snorkeling, gourmet dining, scuba diving, windsurfing, horse back riding, shopping, all with numerous photo opportunities.  

Currency is the Pa'anga which is on par with the Australian dollar.  All brands of travelers' checks are acceptable and get about 4% more than cash.  However, many prefer cash or a combination of checks and cash.  Credit cards are accepted at the major facilities.  They have money machines in some of the larger towns though they are not to be found after we set sail.  To calculate the current exchange rate for the Australian dollar check out this cool link:

Language spoken is Tongan and English.   Almost all of the natives speak some English.

Health risks are few but important.  They are similar when traveling almost anywhere in the South Pacific.

  • Treat any and all cuts or abrasions with an anti-bacterial first aid cream such as Neosporin.
  • Avoid drinking the local water without treating or filtering it.  Lomotil or Imodium is best relief.
  • Beware of food poisoning.
  • Avoid excessive exposure to the sun and heat.
  • Beware of fungal infections between toes or fingers, etc.  Avoid contact with local pets.
  • Avoid fire coral, jellyfish, stone fish, and staphylococcus bacteria.  Wear reef shoes or sneakers.
  • Beware of sexually transmitted diseases.

Tongan Feast is a "don't miss" event.  These are staged in order to commemorate a notable event such as a royal visit, school graduation, fair, state holiday, or our arrival.  In honor of these events, whole villages spend days preparing food enough to feed entire islands.  A pig is roasted and a large assortment of trimmings are prepared. We will experience such an event.

Kava is a nasty drink prepared from the root of the pepper plant though it is said to be tasteless.  I don't think so, or perhaps it wasn't Kava I was drinking.  None the less, it is a part of their culture and certainly worth experiencing.


Kingdom of Tonga

The island Kingdom of Tonga consists of four main island groups:  Tongatapu, Ha'apai, Vava'u and the Niuas.  The main islands of Tongatapu and Vava'u are most developed.  We will visit the islands and coral gardens of Vava'u because of they are, perhaps, the most beautiful.  Ha'apai is well known for their numerous reefs while the Niuas is boasts rugged and pristine wilderness.  The turquoise water in the island kingdom is enchanting, the deserted white sand beaches are endless, and the traditional foods are delicious and bountiful.  The Tongan people are perhaps the most friendly we have found in all our travels.

History

The Tongan Islands were never colonized by any European power and, until recently, seldom saw tourists.  Archaeologists believe the initial colonization was as early as 3,000 BC; however, radiocarbon dating indicates the earliest inhabitants were around 1,100 BC.  Their origin is Polynesian and they, for a period, believed that war and strife were activities pursued by noble and worthy men and that peace-loving fellows could only be considered cowardly and prissy.  About 100 years ago, they put an end to their practice of cannibalism, which was associated with absorbing the power and mental ability of one's enemy.  Early European explorers discovered the Tongans around 1616.   Since then, they traded, fought, and socialized, yet always maintained their identity, culture, and beliefs.

Climate

The islands enjoy a mild and comfortable climate, more so than the Samoas or the Solomons.  The winter months are July to September with temperatures ranging from 62ºF to 72º though southerly winds and strong southeast trade winds can make it unpleasant.  Summer months include December through April with temperatures ranging from 77ºF to 91ºF with some cool nights that make a sweater welcome.  The early summer months are perhaps the best while there is a greater probability of precipitation at end of summer.  Typical winds are from the southeast.  Bad weather seldom last for more that one day.

Tongan Customs

There are a few Tongan customs to be noted.  Tipping is heartily discouraged by al.  Sunday is a religious holiday and is strictly observed (be quiet and respectful).  Tongans are conservative in dress, especially in public places.   Tongan handicrafts are acknowledged to be among the best available in Polynesia and are worth buying.  Coconuts and fruits growing ashore are private property and should not be taken without permission from the landowner.

Tongan Handicrafts

The ancient Polynesian Kingdom of Tonga is well known for its handicrafts of which the most prominent is tapa making and weaving.  Tongan handicrafts are renowned for their quality, range, and low cost.  The large Tapa cloths are unique and a worth while buy.  The basket work is particularly distinctive and a worth while purchase.   Arrangements can be made for surface mail shipments at a very reasonable price.   Handicrafts are available from the Handicraft Center in Neiafu, gift boutiques in the villages and at the Tongan Feast.  Carvings are sometimes skillfully made and quite beautiful.  It may take a little time to find the perfect carving for your taste, but it is certainly worth the search.  Local jewelry made from shells and natural products are plentiful.


The Sailing Adventure - Anchorages

Vava'u is the island group in which we will sail.  The islands are uniquely picturesque with a myriad of channels and waterways twisting like narrow passages leading to secluded anchorages.  The northern extreme of the island mass ends in high cliffs that plunge straight into the raging ocean.  The southern extreme is mostly submerged carving reefs, underwater hazards, and an assortment of beautiful islands that tower 560'.  A line of coral runs southward from the island group.   The capital of the island group, Neiafu, sits in the center of the island group and is the location of the charter base.

Anchorage
Activity and Attractions
Neiafu

 

Start and end our charter here.  The central area of the town lies between Mt. Talau (395 ft), an inlet, Neiafu Tahi, and the road to Pangai Island which is where the charter marina is located.  In town, there is a tourist office, a bank, post office, telecommunications office, government offices, water sports, shops, churches, and several other points of interest.
Causeway

 

Just north of the Causeway anchorage, off the opposite shore of Pangaimotu, in about 120 feet of water, is a 400' sunken cargo ship which burned years ago at the wharf and was towed there to sink.  It can be seen from the surface.   There is good shelling and an interesting walk ashore.
Pangaimotu

 

Pangai Island, or Pangaimotu, belongs to the royal estate.  There is a village with really cool gardens.  Lisa beach is near the southern end of the island and is the location where we expect to visit a Tongan feast.
Talau

 

Talau is one of Vava'u's highest spots rising 430 feet from the sea. A round Talau to the north is a quiet anchorage bordered by two 300-foot mountains.   From this anchorage it is possible to climb Talau.  Past the St. Peter Channel Chapel (east slope) a steep path winds to the summit and a breathtaking (spectacular) view of the town, harbor and many other islands in the group.  The hiking here is very good.
Lotuma Bay

 

Lotuma Bay is only three miles from the marina where the Tongan Beach Resort provides a fine restaurant and water sport facilities.  The Paradise International Hotel also has a good restaurant.
Nuapapu

 

Nuapapu is known for the hidden cave called Mariner's Cave - an underwater avenue requiring good snorkeling skills.  When entering the cave, dive down and while swimming through, keep looking up at the rock ceiling where the water meets the inside air.  It is a magic place with a large dome-like chamber whose walls and ceiling seem to be sculpted of some rosy, lucent rock.  Beneath the water floor is a heart-shaped opening through which surges a sapphire light that fills the place.
Vaka'eitu

 

There is no village on this island though it is the location of the Wolfgramme family plantation, who where among the earliest of Vava'u's German settlers.  A number of animals live here and the island is quite picturesque.   Nearby Langktau is a very beautiful island with some interesting snorkeling.  In bright sunlight this is one of the  most colorful reefs ever seen.
Kapa

 

Swallows' Cave is the main attraction on Kapa island. The cave is an intensive blue deep grotto with multi-colored stalactites that are lit by the afternoon sun with coral formations far below the surface.   Overhead is a mud apartment-like nest of starlings that often fill the cave with their staccato calls.  At the back of the cave is a shaft of light with a rocky path that leads into a dry cave, a great kiln-like room with a circular opening in the top.   Of to the side of the dry cave is a natural road formation that leads to a vast deposit of guano.  Bring a flashlight.  The best way to visit is by dinghy as the water is deep.  Visibility in the cave is excellent and snorkeling is quite good and well worth the time.
Port Maurelle

 

This is the original landing site of the first European to visit Vava'u, Spaniard Don Francisco Antonio Mourelle.  The port is located on the protected western bight of Kapa Island which, on the other side, has awesome swells and impressive views.  There is a route down the spine of the island and another along the coast that is excellent for hiking.
Nuku

 

This is a tiny island with sandy white beaches and ideal snorkeling on the south and east sides of the island.  It is a lunch stop for all the tour boats of Vava'u.  This is a site for celebrations, private parties, and official functions so it gets lots of folks from time to time.
Hunga

 

Furthest west, Hunga is a beautiful island with citrus orchards, a fine village inside an awesome lagoon, good beaches, and excellent snorkeling.  Inside the lagoon is a magnificent lake-like anchorage with several good beaches.  The anchorage is well protected on all four sides.  The village is very friendly and beautiful.  A place of tranquility and peace.
Foeata

 

This island has beautiful, magnificent white sand beaches, and good snorkeling.   It is relatively secluded and is located just south of Hunga.
'Ofu

 

This is a friendly island where the natives sell some quite beautiful shells.  Often they give gifts of shell necklaces and, as custom would have it, you should reciprocate with a simple gift.  It's fun.
Kenutu

 

This uninhabited small island has most excellent beaches with magnificent snorkeling and diving at the southern coral reefs.  The island is heavily wooded with a well marked trail leading across to the steep cliffs on the eastern coast where the waves crash and pound violently on the rocks.  In the center is a large cave with a freshwater pool.  The western side of the island is quite calm.
Mahinita

 

This tiny island is wooded with puko trees and is secluded in the extreme south of the island group.  The island's center is a pristine and peaceful forest.  The white sand beaches and snorkeling is the best.
Euakafa

 

This small island has a 300' plateau with some excellent hiking.  The surrounding beaches are very good and the snorkeling is blessed with some great underwater scenery.  This beautiful island was once the home of a Tongan king.
Mounu

 

This is another small, lush island surrounded by a sandy beach.  The walk around the island is pleasant while the interior is grassy and shaded by tall coconut trees.Lush and small, surrounded by Sandy Beach, paradise.

Good Ideas

  • Bring along items you can use for gifts or trade. Popular items are rock cassette tapes (reggae very popular), colorful cloth, new sports clothing, baseball hats, costume jewelry, perfume, cosmetics, fishing tackle, and kipper snacks. 
  • Observe the zero tolerance for drugs. 
  • Always wear nice clothes in public. 
  • Always treat a cut or open wound with anti-bacteria solution like hydrogen peroxide (once a friend got a bad infection because a very small cut went untreated, beware!). 
  • Use insect repellent when on land. 
  • Ask permission before photographing Tongans in private settings. 
  • Be considerate of Tongan people and property. 

This Bare Boat Charter Trip Includes  

  • Round Trip Flight
  • Refrigeration
  • Bimini Top
  • AM/FM Cassette System
  • Fully Equipped Galley
  • Snorkeling Gear
  • Fully Equipped Yacht 
  • Housekeeping Supplies
  • Linens and Towels
  • Barbecue Grill
  • Cruising Guides and Charts
  • First Aid Kit 

  Credit Card Calls Not Included 


Basic Sailing Checklist

Pack the following equipment in soft luggage and a day pack.  

Clothes

Sailing Equipment 

Personal Gear

Bandanna
Bathing Suit
Belt
Boat Shoes
Cotton Pants
Long-sleeved Shirts
Shorts
Skirt/Simple Dress
Socks
Sweater
Tee-shirts
Underwear
Brimmed Hat
Flashlight
Foul Weather Gear
Sailing Book
Sailing Gloves
Scopolamine

Other Equipment

Cassette Tapes (6) 
Charts
Large Beach Towel 
Mask, Fins, Snorkel
Sewing Kit
Wet Suit Booties
Zip Lock Bags

Book
Camera & Film
Comb
Contacts & Solution
Drivers License
Eye Glass Repair Kit
Insect Repellent
Journal and Pen
Lip Balm
Money ($300)
Passport
Personal Medications
Spare Glasses
Sun Glasses
Sun Screen
Swiss Army Knife
Toothbrush and Paste

 


Sign Up

To sign up, complete the secure form or contact 908-512-9039.  The total cost covers the boat, skipper, and flight from Newark, NJ (cost will be adjusted for other departure points). Food is very reasonably priced as we eat aboard most nights.  There are a few really cool restaurants though most of the anchorages are secluded and the villages are untouched by tourism and have no restaurants.


03/25/03
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