Cape Breton bike ride will take you along spectacular rocky cliffs that plunge into the sea, across vast bogs, windswept barrens, broad valleys and down through deep-walled canyons. The island is northeast of Nova Scotia proper and encompasses the Highlands National Park to the Northwest, Alexander Graham Bell's summer home to the South, and Louisburg Fortress to the East. The Cabot Trail circumscribes the Highlands National Park and passes through mountainous terrain with rugged scenic beauty. The roads are well paved and with relatively light traffic. The bike ride is the best in Nova Scotia and perhaps North America.

Executive Summary

We will depart Caldwell Airport on Saturday morning and fly to Bangor for fuel and then continue to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island to go through Customs. We then continue to Margaree Airport on Cape Breton where we will assemble our bikes and start our ride. We will ride clockwise around the Cabot Trail (186 miles) spending the nights in B&B's and dining in the local restaurants. Each day's ride will be approximately 35 miles with an optional afternoon ride to explore the local area (between 10 and 30 miles). We will conclude our trip back at Margaree Airport where we will load our bicycles and return home, possibly stopping In Maine to visit the Oronoka Restaurant and spend the night. The destinations are described on the back.

The Ride

Our trip will take us along the Bras D'Or Lake, up Hunter's Mountain, and through river valleys, across streams, beside lakes and picturesque vistas that unfold from the top of each hill and around each turn of the road. At Margaree Harbor, in view of the Northumberland Strait, we will ride north toward Cheticamp, a French Acadian village. Beyond Cheticamp and outside Petit Etang we will enter the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and follow a valley that cuts through high rolling hills. We will ride up the first major ascent, Cap Rouge. Several overlooks show Cheticamp behind and the boiling surf below. The first challenge will be French Mountain with the road edging along the sides of the hills as it bends upward away from the ocean. On top of French Mountain, we will ride along a high plateau, gradually descending to the top of MacKenzie Mountain.

The fast descent from MacKenzie Mountain entails a series of switch-backs with steep grades, ending at the village of Pleasant Bay. A few kilometers beyond Pleasant Bay is the Lone Shelling, a replica of the stone huts used by the Scottish crofters. The hut's design protected the crofters against the cold wind from the North Sea while tending their sheep in northern Scotland and the Hebrides. This is the beginning of the most strenuous push of the entire Trail up North Mountain! Then, another spine-chilling, brake-testing rush down the road hugging the cliffs of a spectacular gorge of the North Aspy River Valley. Not far beyond this is an awe inspiring panorama: Sunrise Valley with rolling meadows and green valleys bordered on the West by Cape North Mountain and stretching out to Aspy Bay to the Northeast.

The town of Cape North is the most northerly point on the Cabot Trail. Then a turn toward the East and into Neil's Harbor; then south to Black Brook with its beautiful campgrounds and its heavy surf pounding the sandy beach. We then ride through Ingonish and stop at Middle Head, where the Keltic Lodge Provincial resort is located. Beyond this is Cape Smoky, a massive headland towering four hundred meters above the sea. Five or six miles from the top, the road disappears in the distance where the rolling surf crochets the rocky shore. This is a view of which memories are made.

A tailwind coming from Smoky and ten to fifteen kilometers of flat highway will then take us past Wreck Cove, Skir Dhu, Breton Cove, North Shore, and Indian Brook. A short ferry ride will complete the tour.

Our last tourist attraction is the Alexander Graham Bell national historic site in Baddeck before the final ride back to the airport.

Highlights

Passports are required and visas are not for Americans and most other nationals.

Weather in Cape Breton in July is the best. The average day temperatures range from 68° to 77°F and evening temperatures in the lower 60's°F. Our experience is that it will rain one or two days during the week but otherwise it will be fairly dry and sunny. There is often a 5 to 15 mph wind that favors a clockwise ride around the Cabot Trail.

Currency is Canadian dollars obtained via MAC machines.

Language spoken is English.

Destinations

Cheticamp is on the western coast and a center of Acadian French heritage in the area. There is an information center in town that can provide guidance on local activities. The Deveaux Tourist home is comfortable and can accommodate a group of five at about $25 per person (three rooms). There are 10 small hotels in the area with prices ranging from $40 to $80 per room. Le Chaloupe is a good restaurant for dinner and drinks while Gabriel is most excellent for lunch. Visit the Cathedral. The next stretch of road includes the first big up-hill ride.

Pleasant Bay is at the bottom of MacKenzie Mountain. There are adequate accommodations and restaurants (Mountain View Motel for $60 per room with two beds). It is surrounded by grand mountains. There is a very small convenience store nearby with snacks for the next day's ride. Past Pleasant Bay the trail climbs North Mountain (1,460 feet) where you will pass the Lone Shilling with its virgin forest of hardwood trees and a rebuilt Scottish crofter's hut. The trail then carves through spectacular gorges along the beautiful valley of the Aspy River.

North Mountain is a long up-hill grind (the second) followed by a long, windy, down-hill wild ride. Along the way you will pass the Gingerbread Man restaurant (had breakfast there once) and the Morrison's Pioneer Restaurant at the edge of town. Morrison's is a very good restaurant with plenty of hearty food at reasonable prices. They close early 7:30 p.m. MacDonald's Motel in North Cove is relatively inexpensive. It is across the street from Morrison's. It has always had space; however, a preferred B&B is the Oakwood Manor an awesome farm with a grand view and excellent breakfast. We will need to make reservations ahead. In town, there is a small co-op that has plenty of provisions for the next day's ride and also a bakery for great snacks.

Bay St. Lawrence is a bit of a ride on a beautiful peninsula north of Cape North. There is a very quaint and picturesque fishing village at the end of the ride that is well worth the effort. It is a great place to lounge out with a co-op for provisioning. It would be fun to make a day trip out of this and you can stay two days at the Oakwood Manor (a favorite). It is not uncommon to spot whales in the bay.

Neil Harbor is your next town riding clockwise. There is a scenic route that goes along the north shore (through Smelt Brook) that is well worth the few extra miles. Part of the ride will take you through forested terrain to the fishing village of Neil Harbor. Here you will find a wharf, beach, and a few stores. Upon leaving town, the trail follows the gently sloping Atlantic coast with sandy beaches and overlooks on the rocky headlands of the rugged north shore. There are numerous side trips that are fun if you have the time and energy.

Ingonish is a popular resort area between two bays. The Atlantic Restaurant is good for lunch. It is next to the Keltic Lodge. There is an ideal beach that is most excellent for an afternoon nap. In town there is a plethora of visitor services, stores, restaurants, gift shops, a liquor store, and a bank. It is easy to find accommodations here though they may be more touristy.

Cape Smoky is a long, gradual 1,200 foot climb from the Ingonish Ferry. There are spectacular views of the windy Cabot Trail and rugged cliffs. The down-hill ride is steep, twisty, and very exciting. The trail goes over gently rolling hills as it passes through several small communities with restaurants along the way.

Breton Cove is one of the several small communities along the trail and is the location of MacLeod's Tourist Home. Their rooms are less than $20 per person and are very comfortable. It is important to eat before arriving since there are no nearby restaurants or stores. The house is near the coast with excellent hiking along the rocky beach. There is a good restaurant several miles from MacLeod's in Indian River. The route south can cross the Barachois River Bridge (scenic route) or go through Jersey Cove and take a short ferry ride (300 yards) to Englishtown. The scenic route is a little hilly but has much less traffic. There is a good restaurant at St. Ann's.

Baddeck is where Alexander Graham Bell built his summer estate that now is a national historical site and museum. Dr. Bell was an inventor, teacher, and humanitarian. Be sure to eat at the High Wheeling Cafe (most excellent). It's nice staying in Baddeck but a bit more expensive than out of town. The ride from Baddeck to the airport is long and there is no good place to stay or eat along the way.

Margaree Valley is the location of the Margaree airport right on the Cabot Trail. The Heart of Heart's B&B is moderately priced and very convenient to the airport.

MacKenzie Mountain Bog is on the plateau by MacKenzie Mountain. The park service built a wooden path through the bog and placed informative plaques that describe the vegetation and wildlife resident in the bog. There are numerous orchids, picture plants, sun dew plants, Labrador tea, cotton grass, spaghum most, and a plethora of native vegetation. The 20 minute walk through the bog is well worth the time.

This Biking Adventure Includes

The cost of the flight is $645. You will be able to bring your bicycle, panniers, and accessories. Accommodations are typically $25 per person per night. Food is reasonably priced.

Testimony

"I have traveled around the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, and the Andes and the Alps and the highlands of Scotland; but for simple beauty, Cape Breton out rivals them all."

- Alexander Graham Bell

Signing Up

To sign up, complete the secure form or contact 908-512-9039. Prices include round trip flight from Caldwell, NJ. Food and accommodations are reasonably priced.