Sailing the Greek Islands

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The Cycladic islands are a group of 56 islands of varying sizes scattered over the azure waters of the Aegean Sea. The Cyclades lie to the east of Peloponnese and southeast of the coast of Attica. They stretch as far as Samos and Ikaria in the eastern part and extend to the south by the Cretan Sea. The islands have long stretches of sandy beaches, fragrant pine forests, and rocky capes with crystalline blue waters. The culture is rich and colorful giving birth to one of the most important civilizations, the Cycladic civilization (3000-1000 BC). The charming islands are embellished with little white houses, countless little churches, windmills, narrow alleyways, storm-lashed landscape, and scenic local architecture. Each island is unique.

Executive Summary

We will depart Newark airport on Saturday morning June 7^th and fly to Athens arriving in the early afternoon on Sunday. We will relax for a day aboard our Atlantic 55 sailing yacht and have some time to complete our final provisioning. After the chart briefing we will discuss our float plan and make any last minute changes. We set sail on Monday morning (Day 1). We return home on Sunday.

Passports are required and visas are not for Americans and most other nationals.

Weather is very comfortable with daytime mean temperatures in June averaging 75°F, mean high temperatures averaging 85°F, and mean low temperatures average 68°F. The average probability of rain on an average day in June is 17% which is the third lowest month. June is the third sunniest month of the year. The average sea temperature for June is 65°F. Strong winds, their "Meltemi," blows from mid-July through August. Winds average 15 knots.

Activities include sailing, beach combing, hiking, jeeping, exploring the culture and ruins, archaeological museums, and shopping.

The Atlantic 55' Yacht is very spacious sloop with an extraordinarily large cockpit, 5 double berth cabins, fully equipped galley, refrigerator, freezer, generator, linens and towels, and the latest navigation electronics.

Islands Visited

Kea is an exceptionally picturesque and mountainous island consisting of several small valleys that lead down to small bays and sandy beaches. The island's capital, Hora, is like an amphitheater on the site of ancient Ioulis. At the highest point of the village, on the site of the ancient Acropolis, is the Kastro district which commands a breath-taking view of the nearby islands off the coast of Attica. Not far from here, the famous Lion of Kea (6^th century BC) is carved out of a rock. The Archaeological Museum in the Hora contains some important finds dating from the Cycladic period. There are excellent restaurants in the harbor. We will anchor stern-to the dock right in front of a most excellent Greek restaurant.

Mykonos is the most cosmopolitan of all the Greek islands. Here the high mountains give way to small rocky hills which combine with beautiful beaches to make up the landscape of the island. You will find some of the most beautiful long sandy beaches and upscale bars and restaurants. The town is a stereotype of classic Cycladic architecture with whitewashed streets, cubical houses and churches with sky-blue doors and domes. Numerous shops line the narrow walkways with excellent prices and the islanders are very friendly towards tourists. The capital Hora is a beautiful harbor with brightly painted fishing boats nestled snugly side by side along luxury yachts. Mykonos is widespread brilliant white cubic houses, balconies and white washed parapets that are built on top of each other. Wonderful churches, charming little tavernas and stores selling items of folk art are all clustered in the narrow white-washed alleyways. Three museums show the archaeology, folk history, and nautical heritage. The Monastery of the Panagia of Tourliani is most beautiful with a collection of sacerdotal vestments, embroidery, woodcuts, and pots. Our last discovery was Paradise Beach (a most beautiful beach) several miles from our anchorage in Ornos.

Delos is a major attraction. It is very close to Mykonos and was the religious and political center of the Aegean for a very long time. Delos was the host to the Delian games, the region's greatest festival. Some of the art and sculptures are more than eight thousand years old. The small island, shielded by its neighbors, is the safest anchorage for vessels sailing between the mainland and the shores of Asia. Starting at the archeological museum, the key sites portray an ancient history. A hike up Mount Kynthos provides an overview of the entire village (the population reached 20,000 at its peak). Walking through town to the ancient theater, through Cleopatra's house, several sanctuaries, and houses of famous Greek characters we reach the awe inspiring Avenue of the Lions which still has five Naxian marble beasts crouched on their haunches. This is an archaeological highlight of the trip.

Paros is a large volcanic island, formed through the union of two smaller islands, Kalauria and Sphaeria. We will see lots of white marble architecture and visit an awesome Frankish castle built in 1620 from the stones of an ancient temple. Archaeology buffs will want to visit the scant remains of the Sanctuary of Poseidon, 5 km from the town of Poros. It is on the road to the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi. The sanctuary, like so many ancient temples, sits amidst the most beautiful setting on the island. Dating back to the 6^th century BC, it was the center of the Kalaurian League a maritime confederation formed by Ermioni, Epidaurus Nafplio, Aigina, Athens and Orchomenos. It was also a refuge for the shipwrecked and persecuted. It was here that Demosthenes drank poison after having been cornered by his enemies in 322 BC. Interesting sights include ruins, windmills, monasteries, castles, temples, churches, and beaches. The traditional fishing boats are colorful and numerous in all harbors. Often, you will find locals mending their fishing nets or off-loading their catches. The people here are very friendly towards strangers. The capital city of Paroikia houses over 8,000 residents.

Ios is a small, rocky island inhabited since ancient times. The barren landscape, with its gigantic rocks and marvelous stretches of sand, possesses a wild natural beauty. In the old part of town, in the area of the Kastro, the outside walls of the houses make a fortifying wall. The more recent settlement is equally attractive, with its narrow little alleyways, low stone walls, courtyards, wooden balconies and Aegean-style churches. Chryssospilia, slightly north, has some magnificent stalactites, stalagmites and relics from antiquity. There are lots of museums, beaches, and sites to visit. There is virtually no tourist infrastructure and no road network. A visit to Ios is optional depending on our schedule and the winds.

Santorini has vividly colored cliffs - seared black, red and yellow by volcanic fires over 2,000 years ago when a volcano blew off its head. The rocky slopes rise between the white buildings of the harbor village and the even more dazzling white town of Thira, perched on top of the sheer precipices. It's a long climb (by donkey or funicular) to the top up numerous sharp hairpin turns, but it's worth the trip. The view from the top is majestic. In one direction lies Santorini Bay, the water filled crater of the old volcano. Half of the island lies submerged deep below those impenetrable sapphire waters. The view in the other direction looks over lava strewn fields which nourish some of the richest vineyards in Greece - Santorini is famed for its wine.

Seriphos is a mountainous island with small, fertile planes between the ridges. The highly indented coastline forms large bays. The largest is Livadi in the South and Koutala in the Southwest. The population is farmers and fishermen. The island has its own specific yet basically Cycladic atmosphere. Livadi has an excellent harbor with plenty of space for yachts moored stern-to the dock. Numerous excellent restaurants are on the water front (eat at Takis). The walk up the mountain to the village takes just under an hour and has an excellent view of the harbor below. Here, there are fewer tourists than the other islands. The people are very friendly though many do not speak much English.

Athens is the home of 3.1 million Greeks and covers 165 square miles. Unlike most large cities, there is a low crime rate and is absent of slums. Athens is a series of small villages strung together. The glory that is Greece is the Acropolis looming above the horizon. The National Archaeological Museum is a vast array of artifacts illustrating the many millennia of Greek civilization. Smaller museums such as the Cycladic, the Benaki, and the Byzantine illuminate the history of particular regions or periods.

Other Possible Islands Visited

Special Considerations

Sea Sickness

The most popular medications for sea sickness are Scopolamine and the accupressure wrist bands. Scopolamine requires a prescription and should be tried prior to the trip because it may cause a mild reaction. Very few people have found prolonged discomfort from sea sickness.

Adventure Costs

The round trip flight from Newark airport to Athens, the yacht, and skipper is $2700. We will provision in Athens and plan to eat dinners out most of the time except for five which will be prepared aboard. The food in Greece is excellent and is very reasonably priced. Departures from elsewhere in the world is easily accommodated with prices adjusted appropriately.

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