Yessssss!
Pyrenees Foothills, South France
Aug / Sept 1999 (Two Weeks)
The French Pyrenees are majestically beautiful with a culture based on a deep, long history. The regions between the French Riviera in the east and the Basque country along the Atlantic coast in the west covers a wide variety of life styles and geographic features. The landscape, filled with fields of flowers and white limestone mountains, has inspired artists for centuries. The geographic features include fast moving rivers flowing through deep canyons and an area of volcanic mountains. This is a challenging and off the beaten path to cycle. The distance from sea to sea is 435 miles.
The combination of beautiful scenery, small quiet roads, friendly country folk who love cyclists and exquisite cuisine of each region make for a cyclist paradise. We stress that this itinerary seems excruciatingly laborious in parts which has been selected for scenery, regional history, gastronomical delights, and provincial flavor. We do not use a sag wagon so you must plan to be in good shape. We do organize regular local bike rides to prepare for the ride. For fun, we teach French in the summer followed by dinner.
Executive Summary
We will depart late Friday afternoon for Paris, France. Arriving on Saturday, we will transport our bikes to the train station and make the 500 mile ride to Guethany where we will assemble our bikes and head to our B&B. Each day we will ride our bikes an average of 35 miles over moderately difficult terrain. Some days are short with time to explore local attractions while others are long where the accommodations and attractions are less interesting. Two of the days require difficult climbs up steep mountains.
Passports are required but visas are not for Americans and most other nationalities.
Weather in Southern France is warm but not hot in September.
Insurance is recommended for luggage and medical coverage for the duration of the trip. Be sure that you are covered in this part of the world.
Currency is the French franc. It is best to bring half your money in Traveler's' Checks though your ATM card will work well.
Language spoken is French.
Summary
| Day | Place | Miles | Route Notes |
| 1 | Fly to Paris | NA | Leave plane, take train. |
| 2 | Train to Guethany | 0 | Arrive, assemble bikes. |
| 3 | Ainhoa | 17 | Highest peak in Pyrenees. |
| 4 | St. Etienne-de Baigorry | 25 | Seductively scenic. |
| 5 | Mauleon-Licharre | 25 | Medieval village. |
| 6 | Lestelle-Betharram | 53 | Long, windy, beautiful. |
| 7 | Lourdes | 9 | Lots of attractions. |
| 8 | Arreau | 41 | Fabulous views. |
| 9 | Sauveterre-de-Comminges | 31 | Caves, galleries, village. |
| 10 | St. Girons | 31 | Easy riding today. |
| 11 | Ax-les-Thermes | 58 | Can do Train for part. |
| 12 | Querigut | 34 | Lots of climbing. |
| 13 | Molitg-les-Bains | 44 | Lots of downhill. |
| 14 | Ceret | 45 | Last day in mountains. |
| 15 | Collioure | 24 | Easy riding. |
| 16 | Fly to USA | NA | Train to airport, fly home. |
The Cycling Tour
We will fly to Paris, France and have a trip orientation meeting at the hotel in the late afternoon and review the tour route in general, review French rules of the road, examine the Michelin map, and get to know each other.
| Day 2: | Depart Paris at 9 a.m. from the Austerlitz train station for a 500 mile trip to the picturesque little town of Guethany located five miles south of Biarritz on the Atlantic coast. The ride is seven hours. We will stay in the enchanting Hotel Pereria. |
| Day 3: | We bike south for 2 miles, through St. Jean-de-Luz, and then turn east meandering along the Nivelle River. We will pass through Ascain, a typical Basque village where the sport Jai Aliai is popular. Jai Aliai courts will be seen in many of the towns for the next few days. We begin a small 430 foot climb to the top of the St. Ignace pass, park our bikes, and ride an old steam-powered cog-railway to the 3,000 foot summit, "La Rhune." It is one of the highest peaks in the Pyrenees with sensational views of the Spanish border and Atlantic coast. Back aboard our bikes we continue across the pass, downward to Sare, a small town in a bucolic setting of green rolling hills scattered with whitewashed farmhouses. Continuing along the Nivelle we encounter the most attractive of all Basque villages Ainhoa, just 2 miles north of the Spanish border. We will stay at the Hotel Ithurria, a delightful old coaching inn, serving the traveler for almost 3 centuries. Madame Isabal greets us graciously as her husband prepares an exquisite meal served to us in the magnificent old rustic dinning room. |
| Day 4: | We depart Ainhoa northeastward to the crossroads town of Espelette, with narrow, twisting back streets and pretty homes adorned with brightly-colored flower boxes. This old feudal village is home of the "pottoks," small half-wild horses that were once sent to England to work in the mines. Today they are retired to amuse children and they take tourists for day treks in the surrounding foothills. From Espelette we skirt the Mt. Urzumu, an embankment hosting a glider port, through Itxassou to the Nive River Valley. We follow the valley of this rushing river 10 miles to Eyharce and turn due south through the valley of the Aldudes to St. Etienne-de Baigorry, one of the most scenically seductive spots in the Basqueland. This wooded valley, wildflower-bedecked meadow lands, fresh air and white water river attribute to St. Etienne's popularity as a quiet, mountain spa. Here we stay right on the river at the Hotel Arce, boasting a Michelin-starred restaurant. A treat indeed this will be! |
| Day 5: | We continue eastward to St. Jean-de-Pied-Port, one of the best known and most frequented tourist centers in the western Pyrenees. St. Jean is a lovely medieval village with winding, cobbled back streets, engaging architecture and lots of little shops, many of which sell regional crafts such as embroidered linen. The old capital of Basse-Navarre, St. Jean-de-Pied-Port is crowded by a 15th century citadel perched on a rock outcropping. There is a wealth of history here dating back to the 8th century when Charlemagne's rear-guard troops amassed in St. Jean, the last stronghold before Spain. We'll have plenty of time to explore this bustling market town. Then off for our first real challenge of the itinerary… the Gamia Pass. At the top we're afforded a remarkable view back towards St. Jean and northward to the vast plains of Aquitaine. This is a tranquil if steep road where a car may never pass us the entire way! Dropping down into tiny Tharolle we'll ride through some of the most precious country in all of France, absolutely soothing, gentle, gorgeous terrain. We'll reach 1650 feet at the summit. It is here that we leave the Basque country behind. The downhill glide into Mauleon-Licharre is glorious! Snow-clad peaks of the high Pyrenees loom up in the distance to the south bright white contrasting against brilliant blue skies. |
| Day 6: | A twin city, Mauleon lies on the right bank of the Saison River and Licharre on the left bank. This is a shoe-making town, utilizing rubber in the shoes' fabrication, employing some 2,000 workers. The Renaissance Andurian Castle is just across the street from our hotel. Leaving Mauleon-Licharre early, this will be a day of cycling through thick forests as we begin by winding our way to Oloron-Ste. Marie, a chocolate-manufacturing center. Born as a Roman outpost, Oloron retired from its military role in the 11th century. Sister city Ste. Marie developed in the Middle Ages on the opposite bank of the River Aspe. It was a rural Episcopal bourg. The old Ste. Croix quarter, with its narrow streets, is picturesque. The 13th century Ste. Marie cathedral is an important architectural specimen with its ornate Roman doorway. We'll lunch here. Off then we go through the Bager Woods as we follow a long, winding, remote stretch of road, again devoid of traffic, to Arudy and Louvie-Juzon. Over some gentle hills through lovely farmlands and small, friendly villages as we jog back and forth on tiny back roads before dropping into the Pau River Valley at Lestelle-Betharram. Here we descend upon the vast 17th century gray marble facades of the Batharram sanctuaries. This imposing congregation of huge buildings is a religious college, adorned with 14th century statuary. A beautiful old stone bridge arching over the Pau dates to the 17th century. A half-mile beyond we wheel into the park of the "Le Vieux Logis," a cluster of A-frame bungalows and central hotel a quiet oasis following the trip's longest day to date. |
| Day 7: | A leisurely day with a 9-mile ride. Nearby our hotel are the Grottes de Betharram, one of the most famous natural wonders in the lower Pyrenees. Discovered in 1819 by shepherds and scientifically explored in 1888, these caves were opened to the public at the turn of the century. Today the 1¼ hour tour combines 3 modes of transportation: aerial tramway, subterranean boat, and a small scale train. The spectacular caverns host vast chambers of huge stalactites and stalagmites, a 270 foot deep sinkhole into which the subterranean river spills and, in areas, a strangely spongy floor! By noon we'll be off along the turbulent Pau River, picking up lunch supplies in tiny Rieulhes before riding into the Subercarrere Forest. Here we'll find a pleasant spot to picnic. The final mile is an important one as we enter Lourdes, the biggest city in the itinerary with 20,000 inhabitants and untold visitors. What makes this final leg so significant is that we'll pass by the world-renown grotto of great religious significance. In 1858 Bernadette Soubirous saw an apparition, the Holy Mother, several times. A stream of water was created during her experience which attracted hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and over 4 million visitors to view the hallowed grotto. Lourdes itself is a mass of tacky souvenir stands selling any and every kind of religious memento imaginable. Hotels are numerous. We will stay in the huge Hotel de la Grotte. The balconies of the upper stories afford one of the finest views of the city, the mountain streams, the sanctuaries, and the Pyrenees. It is a very classic establishment, rich in decor. We'll enjoy its remarkably efficient, friendly welcome. |
| Day 8: | Up early to follow the verdant valley of the Neez River to Juncalas and over a low ridge for the winding, scenic descent into the Ardour River Valley and bustling Bagneres, an old Pyrenees spa town with grand hotels typical of the 1920's. Up along the Ardour to Ste. Marie-de-Campan where we split off eastward for our first of two major passes in the trip's second half. From Ste. Marie to Payolle, a popular resort at a high country lake, we'll gain 800 feet in 5 miles. Then we get serious climbing nearly 1300 feet in 3 miles to the Col d'Aspin. The pass, of course, offers fabulous views southward to the high peaks along the Spanish frontier as well as a panorama northward to the high peaks along the Spanish frontier as well as a panorama northward to the outstretched Toulousien plain. This is one of the most revered sections of the Tour de France route. Descending steeply around a series of tight hairpin turns we'll detour into the precious little village of Aspin-Aure nestled in a narrow fold beneath the summit. The day's destination is Arreau at the foot of the switch backs. |
| Day 9: | Dropping down to the flatlands along the Aure River Valley, we ride along the edge of the foothills and through several sleepy villages, over undulating terrain to the Grottes de Gargas. Touring the cave we'll be treated to a gallery of prehistoric man and charcoal artwork, remarkable paintings depicting horses, ibex, bison and mammoths. Unique here are 231 hands painted on the stone walls. Many of them appear curiously with one or more fingers missing. These drawings date back 20- to 30,000 years! Five miles beyond the Gargas caves St. Bertrand-de-Comminges looms up high on an isolated hill. Not only picturesque, St. Gertrand is one of the most important stopovers on any Pyrenees excursion. Following a short, steep climb to the medieval walls, we enter through the village gates and explore the narrow, twisting cobbled streets. This was a Roman settlement with a population that one time swelled to 60,000. Today perhaps 300 people are left. Roman ruins scatter the fields for miles around this crowned hillock The impressive cathedral was erected in the 13th century, its fine cloister adding poetic beauty to the bucolic surroundings and spiritual serenity to the resident monks. We'll plan to lunch here in St. Bertrand-de-Comminges. Passing through the village ramparts down to the flat farmlands, we cross the Garonne River and on through Barbazon on the far slope. Quiet Sauveterre-de-Comminges and the elegant Hostellerie de 7 Molles is the day's destination, set in a verdant bowl providing splendid isolation. Again we'll enjoy a Michelin-starred cuisine along with the luxuries of uncommonly spacious rooms and old-fashioned decor, including four-poster beds. Swimming pool, too! |
| Day 10: | Today's ride is relatively uneventful as we cruise through sleepy, little towns in the low, lush foothills and then follow the wide, rushing Salat River to St. Girons. Here we stay at Michel Bordeau's pleasant Hotel Eychenne where Maurice Bordes' cuisine has earned Michelin's enviable star. |
| Day 11: | Up early heading eastward out of St. Girons, we'll pedal along the Baup and then Pujol Rivers through gently rolling terrain to a mid-morning stop at the Grotte du Mas d'Azil. The arched entry is magnificent, an opening no less than 200 feet high! The guided tour leads us deep within the cavern where excavations have unearthed remnants of prehistoric man dating back to 40,000 BC! In the central chamber the massive ceiling is supported by an enormous rock pillar. An underground torrent still carves away at the calcareous walls below the walking path. Back outside in the sunshine we hit the road again, bound for lunch along a clear creek in the Plataurel Mountains en route to Foix, a city of 12,000. It is here we meet the Ariege River which gives its name to this region of the Pyrenees. We follow the river 10 miles to Tarascon, a bustling tourist center known for its caves. Mining is the important industry here. The mountains begin to get higher and steeper as we head farther southward; the Ariege Valley narrowing. Our route must now utilize the National Road #20, the main highway from Toulouse over the high mountains to Andorra and into Spain. We'll hug the Ariege on this busy thoroughfare for the last 16 miles into Ax-les-Thermes. An option would be to take the train from Tarascon, thereby avoiding the congested highway approach to our destination. |
| Day 12: | This is a day of climbing. Indeed it is the second and final major pass on the tour. Rising instantly, sharply out of Ax-les-Thermes, about 700 feet in 2½ miles up a string of switch backs, we're left in a narrow river valley at Ascou. Shadowing the Lauze River, gently rising we pass a ski area and then the road again enters a series of hairpins before straightening on the approach to the summit. Wildflowers will line our path. Atop the Port de Pailheres at 6,603 feet will represent a 4,230 foot gain in 11.2 miles out of Ax-les-Thermes! It is also the highest point we'll achieve on this trip. Here we're on the north flank of 10,000 foot Pic Calit, the highest of the eastern Pyrenees peaks. The drop down the far side is absolutely unforgettable, one of the most tightly knotted cluster of switch backs in Europe, including some of the most incredible passes in the Alps. The panorama eastward is awesome and we strain to see if we can view the Mediterranean, still 3½ days ahead. Down along the Foret des Hares to Querigut, a tranquil hilltop village crowned by its castle ruins. This is undoubtedly one of the most ignored corners of France and one of the wildest in the Pyrenees. Known as Le Capcir, this high forested country is reminiscent of the High Rocky Mountains in Colorado. Dense forest land of spruce and firs and big lakes make us feel right at home. Above the Lac de Matemal we'll stay in Les Angles, a winter ski resort. Hospitable Madame Gouberu greets us at her simple yet comfortable Hotel Le Llaret. |
| Day 13: | Mostly a day of downhill coasting, we begin with a slight elevation gain bringing us up to La Cerdagne, a vast basin half in France and half in Spain. It is well known to be exceptionally sunny and sheltered. Bathed in this golden light, prairies are crisscrossed with rivulets bordered by alders and willows. It is here we make a special detour to "le four solaire," literally "the solar oven," a six-story parabolic mirror flanked by some 63 "heliostats," smaller mirrors on the ground. First put into service in 1969, the experimental energy collector began powering the nearby town of Odeillo in 1977 and now is its sole source of energy. Nearby Font-Romeu is a tourist resort created in 1920 to take advantage of this high basin's beautiful weather, fresh air and lovely pine forest. Crowded with summer chalets and grand hotels, Font-Romeu occupies a panoramic site, protected from the northerly winds. Here the French Olympic team trained prior to the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City. For lunch we'll stop at austere Mont-Louis, a fortified city built in the 17th century by the great military architect Vauban to defend the new frontier as established in the Pyrenees Treaty of 1659. The citadel's ramparts and bastions offer superb views towards the great Massif du Canigou, the last major set of peaks before the Pyrenees descend into the Mediterranean. From Mont-Louis we follow the main road down 4,000 feet in 23 miles along the Tet River through Olette to Prades. Our day finishes with a slight climb up the intimate Castellane Valley to the health spa of Molitg-les-Bains. Here we stay 2 nights in one of the best known chateau-hotels in all of France. This elegant palatial establishment will reward our deserving group of cyclists with 2 swimming pools, tennis courts and even relaxing and "beautifying" thermal treatments! |
| Day 14: | Our last day in the mountains! Up early to return to Prades and on to the far side of the Tet Valley to the splendid abbey of St. Michel-de-Cuxa. Indeed this is an imposing structure with its elegant tower and world-renown cloister, a part of which has been on display since 1925 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. After a long period of decay the abbey was abandoned and sold off in parts. By 1938 the cloister was restored and made into a park. By 1952 the church underwent extensive repairs and since 1965 Benedictine monks of Montserrat have occupied the abbey. Pablo Casals, living in nearby Prades, gave concerts here during the summer festivals. On the road again, two miles back to Prades and eastward again along the Tet River to Bouleternere. Now in the distinctively arid Roussillon District of the Pyrenees Orientales, we readily feel the approach to the sea. Mediterranean architecture becomes predominant as roofs flatten out and turn to red clay tiles, bougainvillea brighten up ochre-colored walls and tightly-clustered buildings comprise villages nestled in the dry hills. We jog southward around the eastern shoulder of the Mont Canigou through the thrilling scenery of the Boules River Gorge. This is a favorite cycling road in all of France as hardly a car will pass. Twisting gradually upward through the remote village of Boule-d'Amont, we breeze over our final hill at 2,100 feet (Col Fourtou). Pedaling along a high ridge we drop to the Col de Llauro catching our first glorious glimpse of the gorgeous Mediterranean, still a full day ahead of us. Finally, we descend to Ceret with its dry creek beds and characteristic cypress trees, like plumes of dark smoke scattered about the valley floor. We pass through orchards of cherry trees as terrain, climate and therefore vegetation changes dramatically. Madame Bonhomme hosts us at here petit Pyrenees-Hotel in the town center. |
| Day 15: | At the turn of the century a group of avant-garde painters, including Pablo Picasso, drawn by the Catalan sculptor Manolo, settled in Ceret. The quiet, little community soon became known as the "Mecca of Cubism." Today a small museum of modern art assembles works of Matisse, Chagall, Dali, Miro, Picasso and others. It is a remarkable collection of great drawings and paintings. And lots of fine poster reproductions are on sale at the museum shop. Our hotel is just down the street from the museum. We can visit it and then take off for the climactic finish of our sea-to-sea trek. With the shrinking Pyrenees to our right and the plain of Roussillon to our left we ride through vineyards and small farming villages as the air begins hinting scents of the Mediterranean. Clad in shorts and sandals, villagers' dress signals the warm, dry, casual lifestyle of coastal natives and holiday-makers. We crank on feverishly. Or slow the pace to savor the last few miles then the final 3 miles is twisting, hilly and crowded but we are there! The Mediterranean looms below now and we descend into medieval Collioure, a most charming little port with its seaside fortress and sparking white sailboats. The quays are teeming with vacationers and fishermen readying their nets for work. A festive atmosphere greets us enthusiastically. Mr. Yves Costa hosts us in his delightful Hotel la Fregate, and he prepares our last fine Michelin-starred dinner. The Med is crystal clear at Collioure and the jagged coastline offers rock diving and idyllic snorkeling such a memorable finale to such an unforgettable cycling vacation. |
Reference Books
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